The casualities of travelling: March 1st

After for travelling for 60 odd days, things are going to be undoubtedly lost, broken or forgotten, regardless how hard you try to avoid it.

The count thus far is:

My swimming costume: in attempt to dry them faster, Ale thought blow drying my tankini would be a clever idea, until we discovered he'd burnt numerous holes in the bottoms. I'm still wearing them with much embarrassment until I can find a replacement pair.

Sofia's sunglasses: somewhere in California. No idea when they disappeared. They just went walkabout, never to be heard of again. They were replaced with a cool little flowery red pair in Sonoma, which subsequently got crunched under my boot in Ushuaia just as I stepped forward to help Ale put on the backpack holding Sofia and they slipped from her hand. Beautiful timing. She's still wearing them with a stack of sticky tape holding them together.

My sunglasses: disappeared, so we bought a really cool red pair in Santa Barbara. They disappeared in Cordoba, Argentina one night, but I found my original ones again. Have to say, kinda miss my red ones....

Ale's sunglasses: while taking a 'wildlife photographer of the year shot', they slowly slid off his head and plopped into a creek in El Calafate. All in slow motion. Quickly replaced with a really cool new black pair, which accidently snapped in my pocket while trekking in Ushuaia. A bit of super glue later, they still remain unfixed with a lovely blob of super glue still on the lens. Every now and then the lens pops out, leaving us with Pirate Ale.

2 x T-shirts: shrunk when our laundry was done in Buenas Aires. I passed them onto the lovely French girls in our B&B in Mendoza

1 x pink singlet shirt: shrunk in the laundry but I'be kept it - just in case I have an urge to have something cut in under my arms

1x long sleeve shirt: yep, you guessed it, shrunk in the wash. It now just accentuates how long my arms really are

My CK jeans: same tragic end as the other clothing. Shrunk in the wash. Happy birthday Dan, 3 guesses what your pressie is

Sofia's Winnie the Poo hat: blown off the Hop on/Hop off bus in Buenas Aires. We watched it flouff off down the main road as the bus drove away. Replaced in El Calafate by a new denim hat.

Pair of earrings: one of the pair simply disappeared the first afternoon in Buenas Aires. So sad...

1 x red trolley bag: pull out handle broken, pull things on the zippers gone. Makes opening and closing rather difficult

1 x blue trolley bag: pull out handle broken. Bummer. The whole point of having a trolley bag, now gone

That's it for now. Fingers crossed the count stops here....

Lusso per sbaglio (24.02)

Una terrazza sui vigneti che tagliano le montagne della valle centrale, a destra le Ande perchè bianche, in mezzo una luna piena che non si muove. Siamo usciti da una piscina fresca e mentre Sofia da da mangiare ad una gatto con un occhio solo ma tante fusa, noi finiamo un  Sauvignon Blanc Viu Manent  2012 Colchagua Chile, taglio erbaceo. Nessuno intorno, oggi è una domenica di ferragosto cilena. Bersani avanti be negli exit pol. Lusso inaspetato all' Hotel del Campo di Santa Cruz, prenotato su booking.com pensando ad un prezzo per due notti mentre invece pagavamo per una sola ma irripetibile experience.

1000 pietre colorate che rotolano verso il mare (23.02)

Terrazze di mosaici su una baia di musica latina. Un Cristo con le braccia aperte a trattenere mille pietre colorate che rotolano verso il mare. C'è Jorghe che costruisce mobili reciclando legno di case incendiate e Angela rinchiusa in uno sgabuzzino scavato nella montagna  a scavare pietre per farne gioielli e quando le rubi una foto ti dice grazie perchè è un modo per viaggiare. E poi il collettivo 41, un taxi in cui ti schiacci con improvvisati compagni di viaggio per  mezzo dollaro che ti riporta in cima al cerro da Bernard e I'll suo Hostal Sur Mar. Bernard e I suoi racconti terrorizzanti di come I turisti a Valparaiso vengano seguiti da persone che poi telefono ad altre persone e altre ancora per circondare lentamente  i malcapitati. Bernard ti dice anche di non attirare l'attenzione e tu ti domandi come fare mentre giri con Sofia nelo zaino in spalle,  unico finora in tutto il Sudamerica.

L'angelo custode di Santiago (22.02)

Qui la religione cattolica c'è e si vede nelle numerosissime chiese come quella di San Francesco con un intero altare dedicato alle grazie per gli animali. Il mio Angelo custode si chiama Lallo ed ha una faccia ultrasessantenne tutta europea, senza traccia di quei lineamenti indios che inizi a vedere scavalcando le Ande. Ha un passato marinaresco nella flotta greca degli anni 60 e qualche viaggio in Italia con parenti in un paesino del nord di cui non ricorda il nome. Adesso lavora a Santiago tutta la notte dietro alla scrivania della reception dell'hotel calle Generale Eucharren. A lui ci sono arrivato con la raccomandazione di una signora cilena che si è presa a cuore il mio caso e mi ha detto una cosa del tipo: "ma ragazzo mio arrivi dall'Italia e pensi di lasciare la macchina in strada a Santiago? E adeasso come facciamo? vediamo se ti posso aiutare. La nostra Toyota Corolla, bianca giovane e fresca di Europcar dell'areoporto di Santiago con una franchigia di 1500 usd, rappresentava un problema. E se qualcuno decideva di rapirla e avviarla alla proficua tratta delle bianche in Sudamerica?  Per fortuna c'è Lallo con un occhio sempre aperto tutta la notte, mi dice di parcheggiare la giovane proprio li di fronte alla sua postazione "no sai probleama te la miro io". Il mattino dopo la bianca era ancora li, vicina al palo, e anche i miei soldi. Lallo quasi offeso ha rifiutato ogni tentativo di mancia.  
8.000 di abitanti, 6 senza i peruviani, Santiago la giri in 2 ore del tuo pop in pop off Turistik bus: tante chiese, tante bandiere, qualche bandiera in chiesa (?!). Tante università perchè come dice Il Presidente chileno Ricardo Largo con parole scolpite all'ingresso del Centro cultural Palacio della Moneda "Chile pacifico y austral. Donde se encuentran y dialogan las culturas. Qui se abre a conocher y enriquerces con las culturasdel mundo" . Poi però scopri che le università sono private, si paga circa 10.000 usd all'anno, e gli studenti so no abbastanza incazzati in piazza, come ci raccontano due rappresentati di quell I che mi sembrano molto simili ai comitati leninisti di Palazzo Nuovo.
Per il resto aveva ragione il mio amico brasiliano Jefferson, compagno di avventure in Ushuaia: bario Bellavista è il più bello di Santiago. Una colonna colorata di bar e pub, atmosfera autentica da aperitivo cileno quasi safe se non fosse per la continua raccomandazione di legare sempre let borse sotto all tavolo. 

Top 10 Argentinian experiences

Flying over Patagonia and thinking about top ten Argentinian experiences
500 km in the desert  between San Juan and Cordoba driving near the bottles of Difunta Correa and the red sanctuaries of Gauchito Gill
Facing Perito Moreno ice clif, the call of nature
Among the colours of people from La Bocha, droping 50 pesos to take a picture with the fake Maradona.
Adventure on Andes, crossing rivers and skipping rocks with our Chevrolet Meriva
Drinking a bottle of Malbec with our friend and  wine maker Patrizio.
The very genuine lesson of how to make spumante wine at Spumanteria Mas di San Juan
Dinner at Mendoza  Mi Casa Hotel with Almodovar's atmosphere
Tango y pasion  evening in Buenos Aires
Trekking and adventures in Ushuaia thinking about how to go further south
Meat, meat, meat: bife de chorizo jugosa or cruncy milanesa with malbec or a liter of iced Quillmes.

Adios Argentina: Feb 19th

What adventures we had in this country. Unlike we've never experienced before. A wee recap of the best memories...

Mate: How I will miss seeing the Argentinians sipping on their mate while carrying around a thermos of hot water to top up their tea. PS: love that Argentinians travel around their own country. The biggest tourist group we came across.

The Tango: I've finally been educated in this incredible dance. Wow.

Patagonia: Wow. Wow. Wow. Expansive space, history, colour. Even better viewed from horseback.

Perito Moreno: A stunning and awesome sight to behold.

Dulche de leche: Nector of the Gods. More caramelly than condensed milk and eaten from the spoon, used in cakes, bread, muffins, ice-creams. Yum. Get your hands on some. The mama's milk of every true Argentinian!

The Andes: if you ever have the need to feel 'insignificant', drive through The Andes. Their range of colour, immensity will leave you breathless.
The people: warm, generous, kind. What a wonderful group of people we came into contact with.

The meat: Yep. Pretty damn good and oh so very cheap.

Malbec: Originating from French meaning 'bad mouth', I can assure you that the Argentinians have perfected this fabulous red wine.

The 'willy willies': Little twirly dust storms that self created, twirled and disappeared in the desert.

The roads: Appalling yet fun. Many we never drive on them again.

Flicky legs: Feb 19th

Intense, naughty, sexy, cheeky, legs flicking dangerously close to ouchy bits and not a rose in sight.

The Tango. Wow. I never realised what an amazing dance it really is. I love it's street origins and that it was a mix of moves and music woven together by the different immigrant communities arriving in Buenas Aires.

We caved in and saw a 'show' on our last night but man, it was great. In a small theatre of huge Tango history 3 couples swished, flicked and slid across the floor. Sofia was entranced - especially with the smoke machine effects, which I can only imagine mimicked the original smokey bars. She clapped furiously among her 'wooooows'. So much so, that I saw a dancer clock her and smile while he danced.

The dancers were backed by a live band made up of a piano, double bass, accordian, guitar and violin. What a sound. I especially love that the accordian player was a young guy with long tight curly hair pulled back with a head band. No doubt he was teased in school for his choice of instrument, but I've no doubt he's pleased as punch now.

Please, please, please, if you can't manage Tango lessons, at least buy a CD, turn the lights down low, pop open a bottle of Malbec and flick your legs around. You'll find another side of you, you didn't know existed.

The End of the World: Feb 18th

As we boarded the plane to leave Ushuaia, both Ale and I felt that we were leaving behind missed discoveries, unboarded ships and unwritten adventures.
I never knew Ushuaia even existed let alone that adventure permeates every inch of the town as it is the jump off point for cruises to the Antarctic (that don't cost $AUD20,000) and ferries through the fiords to Chile. We just didn't know. Hence why we spent our last few hours desperately trying to change our plans, with no success.

Nonetheless, we still made the most of our 4 days. While Sofia and I took a leisurely cruise in Beagle Bay discovering wild sea lions, cormorones and the southern most lighthouse in the world, Ale took off in a 4WD to discover the meaning of 'off road driving'. Note to my parents: he's hooked, so be prepared to get the Landcruiser dirty! Finishing off with kayaking, an Argentinian BBQ and his own bottle of Malbec. He had a wild glint in his eye when he returned and a 'manly' smile on his face.

I imagined this part of the world to be so bleak. How wrong I was! Green, green everywhere - forests, national parks and trees hugging the entire coastline.

We trekked for 4 hours in the National Park following the bay, which was incredible. I've never seen so many fallen trees. The wind is intense and the humidity so high that the trees disintergrate at an alarming rate. Sofia rode like an Indian princess on her Papa 'elephant's' back all the way. We also made our way up to the 'local' glacier which offered brilliant views of the entire Beagle Bay and Chile.

Best of all was our B&B run by Marco. A coming together of interesting and wonderful people in Marco's family home. His family halve lived in Ushuaia for over 100 years, so we were unknowingly staying with a true local. Wonderful to meet Marcela, Ismerie, Christophe and Elena. Great times were had.

Ice Monster: Feb 12th

30 kms long, 70 metres high with an area of 200 square kms Perito Moreno is simply amazing. It's the smallest of all the glaciers at the National Park but is the most famous. As we came around a bend in the bus,  people simply gasped at seeing it for the first time. A 4 km long wall of ice that shoots 200 metres down into the icey turquoise waters of Lake Argentina.We took a boat ride which brought us within 200 metres of the wall but the proportions of distance and size are simply lost. You feel like you could almost reach out and touch it. It moves forward 1-2 metres a day but then loses a metre off the wall as blocks of ice break off and splash into the water creating quite a spectacular photo opportunity!The intenal grinding and cracking sounds of the ice are a little eerie and unnerving. Ale stood on the viewing platform with his camera primed for ages waiting for 'tragedy' to strike. He was visibly excited every time we heard the cracking sounds only to miss his opportunity when he turned to take a photo of Sofia eating an Oreo bickie. Oh the tragedy of it all.There's obviously so much internal movement that you can't see but it's a reminder that this ice monster is alive and well.

The only way to see Patagonia: Feb 13th

The wonderful perfume of 'horse', the big boofy saddle covered with sheepskin, mountains on one side and Lake Argentina on the other. I was in heaven for about 40 minutes as 3 of us with our Gaucho (cowboy) Roberto and 2 sheep dogs went for a ride around a local sheep Estancia (ranch/station). Note: big thanks to Aunty Trish for teaching us how to ride. You never forget the skill!It was a touristy choice, but we decided to visit a local Estancia 'Galpon' so Sofia could see the dogs, horses and sheep up close. One of the girls took us on a historical tour explaining how the Estancia once worked as a sheep farm, showed us the kelpies rounding up the sheep and then Roberto sheared a sheep for us in the old sheep shearing shed. It was like being home in Australia, except the kelpies spoke Spanish and Roberto was dressed in traditional Gaucho gear which would probably be regarded as slightly 'decorative' by your everyday Aussie Jackaroo.We ended with a fantastic traditional lamb BBQ and a couple of bottles of Malbec shared with our lovely new friends Paola and Nico who we met on the tour.Although we were entertained by traditional dancing it was Sofia on the stage afterwards who showed some pretty fancy footwork!

Trekking town: Feb 11th

I simply loved El Calafate from the minute we landed at the tiny strip airport built in the middle of nowhere. It's just a little town with trekking at its heart. It sits on the edge of Lake Argentina where a section has been turned into a bird reserve. We spent an hour walking around and were surprised to see ....would you believe...flamingos! Its one main street starts with the best children's park I've ever seen (Sofia had a ball!) and stretches down a kilometer or so dotted with adventure tour offices, restuarants, cafes, trekking shops and local handicrafts on each side. Sounds touristy but strangely, it wasn't.Our favourite find was Pura Vida a very zen green and purple restuarant serving homemade stews (served in pumpkins), vegetarian meals and excellent Malbec. Oh how I've missed my veges, but two nights at Pura Vida reminded me how good they taste!

First thoughts on Patagonia: Feb 11th

If you weren't naturally a poet, painter, writer or muscian I believe Patagonia could still nonetheless inspire the colours, words and notes needed to create masterpieces.It's landscape is so breathtaking, it leaves you speechless. The colours are so beautiful and when the sun bounces of the glaciers, lakes, mountains, you just stand there and stare. You just need to breath it all in. Absorb it and remember it because its immensity is all too much to take in at first look.I've finally found my little niche of Argentina that I've been looking for.I think to completely appreciate all Patagonia has to offer, you need to come - sad to say - without the younger kiddies as all of the more adventurous activities won't take them for insurance reasons. Glacier kayaking, 4WDriving, Glacier Trekking, 3 day horse rides through the wildnerness. Nonetheless we are having a wonderful time.